Miraco Heat Tubes Part number 834
Miraco Heat Tubes Part number 834 is backordered and will ship as soon as it is back in stock.
Warranty
Warranty
Delivery and Shipping
Delivery and Shipping
All products will ship according to shipping option selected at checkout. Standard USPS and UPS average shipping times are 2-7 and freight up to 2 weeks. Allow extra time during peak season and the holidays. For more information see our Shipping Policy.
Description
Description
Miraco highly insulated heat tubes shield the incoming groundwater from cold as it passes through the frost level. Centering your waterline in the poly constructed tube ensures years of trouble free use. Manufactured from the same durable poly material as the Miraco automatic waterers.
For ultimate installation, one 30 inch tube and 3 feet of 14.25 inch (Male end 12") (ID 10") plastic drainage tile (sold separately) provides a sufficient heat well in most locations. For northern locations, two heat tubes may be required.
Sold individually.
TIP
Ensure the heat tube is free and clear of any fill or items that will touch the waterline and the side of the heat tube. That will allow frost to travel over to the waterline and potentially cause freezing or slush issues. The water temperature in the waterline will help warm the airspace around the line, and the insulation within the heat tube will help maintain that warmer temperature, assisting in the prevention of freezing.
Three things to get right with heat tubes
Most of the calls we get about frozen waterlines come back to the riser tube, and almost always to one of these three things. They are easy to get right on installation day and expensive to fix afterward.
Do not cut them
Heat tubes are insulated all the way through. Cutting one opens up the insulation inside, and once it is exposed it breaks down over time. You lose the protection you paid for, which defeats the point of installing an insulated tube at all.
Order the length you need rather than trimming one down.
Set them level with the pad
The top of the tube needs to sit flush with the top of the concrete pad. Many units sit directly on top of the tube once they are set.
Flush is what lets you seal along the base of the unit, and that seal is what keeps winter air off the waterline. A tube sitting low or proud of the pad leaves a gap you cannot close properly.
Bury deep enough, and put the insulation on top
Follow the manufacturer guidelines for your unit. As a standard, get the waterline protected at least one foot below your frost line. If you are not sure how deep your frost line runs, your local extension office can tell you.
If you are extending with uninsulated tile or PVC, do that part below the frost line and keep the insulated portion toward the top. The insulation does its work in the section where the cold actually reaches.
Whatever you use, center the waterline in it. The last thing you want is the waterline touching the ground or resting against the wall of the riser tube. That contact is how frost carries over to the line.
Avoid narrow riser tubes for the same reason. The tighter the space, the easier it is for frost to reach the line and for ice to build up in the line and in the valve.
Heat tubes do not heat the waterline
This one gets misunderstood a lot, and the name does not help. A heat tube has no heating element in it. There is nothing to plug in and nothing drawing power.
What it does is hold the air temperature that the warmer incoming water brings up with it. The insulation keeps that pocket of air around the line steady, which helps hold a constant water temperature and keeps frost from carrying over to the line.
Do I really need one
We recommend a heat tube on every installation. Installation is what determines how well a waterer works and how long it lasts, and this is the part people most often cut corners on.
That said, in milder climates they are not always used. Some people center the waterline in tile or in 8 inch or larger PVC instead. What is not optional is centering the waterline in something. Bare line in an open hole, or line pressed against the side of a narrow tube, is how you end up with ice in the valve in January.
If you are not sure what your situation calls for, give us a call before you pour the pad. It is a lot easier to talk through beforehand.
Common questions about Miraco heat tubes
Can the tubes be cut or shortened?
Can the tubes be cut or shortened?
No. They are insulated all the way through, and cutting one exposes the insulation inside. Once exposed it breaks down over time and you lose the protection you paid for, which defeats the purpose of installing an insulated tube. Order the length you need rather than trimming one down.
How high should the tube sit relative to the concrete pad?
How high should the tube sit relative to the concrete pad?
Flush with the top of the pad. Many units sit directly on top of the tube once installed, and having it level is what lets you seal along the base of the unit. That seal is what keeps winter air off the waterline.
How deep should the tube be buried?
How deep should the tube be buried?
Follow the manufacturer guidelines for your unit. As a standard, get the waterline protected at least one foot below your frost line. When you are figuring the length you need, remember to include the concrete pad, which runs 4 to 6 inches. If you are extending with uninsulated tile or PVC, put that section below the frost line and keep the insulated portion toward the top. Your local extension office can tell you how deep the frost line runs in your area.
Do heat tubes actually heat the waterline?
Do heat tubes actually heat the waterline?
No, and the name is misleading. There is no heating element in a heat tube and nothing to plug in. What it does is hold the air temperature that the warmer incoming water brings up with it. The insulation keeps that pocket of air around the line steady, which helps maintain a constant water temperature and keeps frost from carrying over to the line.
Do I need one at all?
Do I need one at all?
We recommend one on every installation, because installation is what determines how well a waterer works and how long it lasts. In milder climates they are not always used, and some people center the waterline in tile or in 8 inch or larger PVC instead. What is not optional is centering the waterline in something. The waterline should never touch the ground or rest against the wall of the riser tube, because that contact is how frost carries over to the line. Avoid narrow riser tubes for the same reason, since a tight space makes it easier for ice to build up in the line and in the valve.
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